30th May - Grand Junction, Colorado

With a very squared off rear tyre and a blinking oil light, I decided it was time for a service. Found a place at Grand Junction just a few miles from where I was staying. I just turned up. They were happy to help. Will take an hour. Took all day. Still I got to talk to a lot of other bikers - 90% of which were Harley riders including a bloke in a leather cap, waist coat and cuban heels who had just bought this for $36K (c. £24K).

He was 70 years old and had 20 other Harley's. Later Jersey Steve turned up. His throttle cable was broke - simple problem other than his monkey hanger bars required a cable about six foot long. So he was waiting. Used to be in a member of the Bandidos and been inside for a while. Now married to a native Indian. "Don't do BMW's - I'm too short".

With the hosepipe length throttle cable fitted, Jersey Steve made his way. Just after this pic he tried to swing his leg over the bike with some difficultly. "Goddamn leg, I lost it back in '93. As I lay by the bike, I said to this bloke - go and get my boot will ya?. Steve, I ain't picking that up its still got yer leg in it". Showed me his leg. Looked like the aftermath of a shark attack. Pointed the wrong way too.